Yazd, a Lighthouse in the Desert
Have you ever dreamed of walking in a labyrinth the size of an entire city? In the desert? In the Middle East? Counter Strike vibes? All your dreams can come true, if you just visit Yazd, the mysterious desert city in the very center of Iran. It’s not just the city architecture of Yazd that is unique. The whole place has a different mood: enigmatic, artistic, conservative, yet, chilled-out.
Many Iranian people told me that Yazd is their favorite city in the country. When I asked them why, they replied with simple words: “because the city has it’s own character”. So… let’s delve into it!
The Numbers
When numbers are speaking, they say, even gods are silent. Here’s what numbers have to say about Yazd:
+500,000 is the population of Yazd, making it the 15th largest city in Iran.
52 meters in height and 6 meters in diameter: these are the dimensions of the highest minarets in all of Iran and they belong to the Jameh Mosque of Yazd. The mosque is +700 years old.
20,000–40,000 or 5 -10 percent of Yazd’s population is Zoroastrian, belonging to one of the oldest continuously practiced religions in the world, since 5th century BCE.
+3,000 years ago, until up to 40 years ago, Zoroastrians used to bury people of their faith in the Towers of Silence. There are 2 towers on this site and the towers offer a panoramic view of Yazd.
About 30 miles outside of Yazd, lies a sand castle called Sar Yazd Castle. The castle was built in the 7th century and its interior is filled with 450 chambers over 3 floors.
Sources: Wikipedia & Encyclopedia Britannica.
Understand
The distinctive “vibe” of Yazd is due to it being situated right in the middle of the desert. There are many adaptations that local people have done to accommodate themselves in the dry and hot surrounding landscape, the most notable of which are the wind catchers. These are tall, cuboid clay structures and they “catch” cold air while letting hot air out, providing a natural cooling mechanism without using any electricity. The towers form such a unique skyline of the city, that some people call Yazd “the city of wind catchers”.
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The second most important engineering marvel in Yazd are the water canals in the city, known as Qanats. You will also see many water coolers and cisterns looking like giant anthills made of clay. Indeed, everything in this city reminds you of the desert. This feeling of being in the heart of a desert, without actually seeing giant sand dunes is very particular to Yazd.
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Yazd is the most significant city in Iran for learning about Zoroastrianism, one of the world’s oldest continuously practiced religions. It was a Zoroastrian center during the Sassanid times, between 3rd and 7th century AD. The fire in Atashkadeh-e Yazd Fire Temple, the most important Zoroastrian temple in the city, is said to be burning continuously since 470 AD. The principles of Zoroastrianism are simple and resonate even in modern times: Good Thoughts, Good Words, Good Deeds. You can learn more about Zoroastrianism by visiting the Fire Temple and the Towers of Silence.
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Word has it that the best pomegranates in Iran come from Yazd. My experience confirms this to be true. You can have a HUGE glass of pomegranate juice for around 2 EUR, which is a pure luxury given the prices of fresh juice in Europe. Also, pomegranate harvest season is celebrated in Yazd in late October/beginning of November. Here’s a glimpse of the beauty of this festival, as narrated by Iranian journalist Fatemeh Askarieh.
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One of the best thing in the city is that you can pretty much go on any rooftop and take a look around you. Even better, some of Yazd’s artsy and hip cafés are located on rooftops. Hanging out there could make you want to spend a month in Yazd alone, just gazing at the stars, drinking tea and debating with friendly Iranians on pretty much everything in life. Keep reading to check out my recommended rooftop cafés in the city. Looking from these rooftops, you will see a clay labyrinth. And yes, this whole labyrinth in the old city center is a UNESCO world heritage site.
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Just like in Kashan, people in Yazd tend to dress more conservatively, with black/darker colors. If you wear bright colors, you will definitely stick out as “the tourist” which will guarantee you many curious looks and maybe a couple of selfies to go with.
See & Do
I spent 2 days and a half in Yazd. It was enough to get a feel of the city. If you wish to see the desert, I suggest you add 1-2 more days to your planned stay. The larger part of the listed below places are reachable by foot, especially in the historic city center. You might need to take a taxi ride to visit the Zoroastrian Fire Temple, The Towers of Silence and Saryazd Castle. Make sure to negotiate the taxi rate before getting in the car.
I’ve grouped the sites by topic, depending on what your interest is. If no price is listed, entrance is free.
If you wish to visit the main historic, cultural and Islamic sites, check out the list below:
Amir Chaghmagh Complex - This complex is actually a beautiful Islamic architecture construction surrounding a square with a fountain and a garden. The main gate is 3 floors with 2 tall minarets and the remaining part is on 2 floors. There is a mosque on one side of the complex that you can also visit.
Saheb Al-Zaman Zurkhaneh - This is a sports performance where you can see Zurkhaneh, a traditional system of athletics originally used to train warriors in Persia. This system comprises of exercises both for the body and mind and there’s even an International Zurkhaneh Sport Federation. Photos and videos are permitted inside and the entrance fee is 150.000 IRR.
Yazd Water Museum - This is not a museum that has a “wow” effect, but you can learn interesting information about the Qanat water distribution system. Entrance fee is 150.000 IRR.
Jameh Mosque of Yazd - With the tallest minarets in Iran, this mosque is a must see. The beautiful turquoise entrance gate made me stay there for half an hour - just to admire the hypnotizing tiles. Inside, the mosque has light blue tiles and red carpets. This combination of colors is often seen in both Shia and Sunni mosques, but Jameh Mosque is probably one of the finest examples where this color harmony appears. A favorite mosque of many locals, foreigners need to pay an entrance fee of 200.000 IRR.
Imamzadeh Jafar - This mosque was nowhere recommended on any blog nor tourist information website and I honestly don’t know why this is the case. Please note this is not a popular touristic place, but an active mosque where people pray. Women need to wear full cover i.e. chador inside. Imamzadeh Jafar is easily one of my favorite mosques in Iran ever. The entrance gate is highly ornate with the most amazing tiles, typical for Shia Islam. People are praying quietly inside and the ceiling is covered in mirrors. Definitely worth a visit!
Alexander's Prison - This place is on every article I found about Yazd. My opinion is that it’s not a highlight of Yazd at all, especially compared to the previously listed places. I would only recommend to go there if you have some extra free time. Entrance fee is 150.000 IRR.
Saryazd Castle - This castle is located 50km south from Yazd. I really wanted to see it, but it was closed, probably due to low tourist season and the just finished days of the Muharram Observances. Pictures of this place online look surreal and I can only hope to be back in Yazd and see it one day.
Yazd is the perfect place in Iran to learn more about Zoroastrianism. A must see if you are interested in this topic are the following places:
Zoroastrian Fire Temple, a.k.a. Yazd Atash Behram - The literal translation of Atash Behram is “Fire of Victory” and this is the main place to visit if you want to learn about Zoroastrianism. The temple is one of the nine Atash Behrams (holy fires in Zoroastrianism). It is the only temple of the highest-grade Zoroastrian fire in Iran where people have practiced their religion since 400 BC. The other eight Atash Behrams temples are in India. The entrance fee for the temple is 150,000 IRR.
The Towers of Silence - This is a place where Zoroastrians used to bury the dead. I happened to be visiting with people from this faith who told me that for them, visiting this place brings sadness for being a graveyard of Zartosht people. From a tourist perspective, this place is a fortress-like construction spread on two hills. Since more than 40 years, Zoroastrians are no longer allowed to bury the dead of their faith at this place, so you will not feel like you are in a necropolis. The entrance fee is 150,000 IRR.
Chak Chak-Ardakan Zorastrian Shrine - I didn’t visit this shrine, because it’s outside of Yazd and about 90km far North of the city. However, my Zoroastrian friends told me about this place and I’m mentioning it here for anyone interested to see it.
Yazd is a great place to shop for copper goods, ceramics and golden jewelry. The most notable markets in the city are listed below:
Yazd Coppersmiths Bazaar - As its name suggests, this is the place to find anything made from copper. Most of the time, the items sold there are hand made, so it’s guaranteed you’ll find a lot of unique pieces.
Yazd Goldsmith Bazaar - No need to speak more, it’s pure gold, so go get those bling bling goodies. Just kidding, mind your wallet!
Yazd Khan Bazaar - This is the bazaar where everything happens - the chaos, the hustle & bustle. Jump in brave exploration!
When in Yazd, you need to experience the rooftop cafes with panoramic views of the city. Two of my favorite rooftop cafés in the city are Yazd Art House and Friend’s House. Both are in the historical city center, close to each other and offer great views of the city. Both cafés are vegetarian & vegan friendly. You can also buy ceramics and other locally made souvenirs at both places. These warm nights in Yazd, drinking tea and looking at the stars in the night sky while chatting for hours with friends were my favorite part of being in the city.
Impressions
As I’m finishing this blog post, I remember thinking about Yazd as one of the most unusual places I’ve ever seen. When I walked between those sand street labyrinths, I felt a mix of excitement and nervousness about what might be waiting just around the corner. There are no skyscrapers in Yard, but there’s something about this city that makes you feel small. Maybe it’s the desert around you. Maybe it’s the narrow alleys where whispers echo making you wonder of the destinies intertwined in this city. Maybe it’s the stillness in those desert nights, disturbed only by the cats roaming on the rooftops. Maybe this is Yazd, the biggest riddle of them all, standing tall in the middle of the sands with its ancient minarets. Just like a lighthouse stands in the middle of the sea showing the way for those lost among the waves, these minarets are there for the travelers lost among the endless dunes. And you, have you ever dreamed of losing your heart to the whispers of the sands?
Copyright © Alex Kovacheva, Nomad Photos. All rights reserved.