Poems, Roses, Nightingales, Shiraz
If love is your pain, wine is the cure. If wisdom you seek, Hafiz is the teacher. If pink is your mood, Nasr-Ol-Molk is the perfect sanctuary. And if you think that there is no city in the Middle East which speaks romance with its every fabric, oh, how wrong you are! Because this is Shiraz and Shiraz will get you daydreaming of the mystical, the cosmic and everything beyond.
How can one not start dreaming when in Shiraz? Just read a few verses of my favorite Hafiz poem below and let your heart drift away.
“Leave the familiar for a while.
Let your senses and bodies stretch out
Like a welcomed season
Onto the meadows and shores and hills.
Open up to the Roof.
Make a new water-mark on your excitement
And love.
…
All the hemispheres in existence
Lie beside an equator
In your heart.Greet Yourself
In your thousand other forms
As you mount the hidden tide and travel
Back home.”Hafiz
Tile details at Narenjestan Garden, Shiraz, Iran
The Numbers
+1.8 million people live in Shiraz, making it the 5th largest city in Iran.
Shiraz is one of the oldest cities of ancient Persia, with evidence for its existence dating to 2000 BCE.
From 1750 until 1800 Shiraz was the capital of Persia during the rule of the Zand dynasty.
25 malls and 10 bazaars make Shiraz a Shopper’s paradise. The Persian Gulf Complex in Shiraz is The 12th largest shopping mall in the World, with 2,500 stores covering 450,000 square meters.
In 1315, Hafiz, Iran’s most prominent poet, was born in Shiraz. Hafiz (also spelled “Hafez”) is a pride for all Shirazi people and many read his poetry not only for its artistic virtues, but also as a form of prophecy.
Thousands of hand painted tiles make up the decoration for one of the most beautiful mosques in the world, Nasr-Ol-Molk. Also known as the Pink Mosque, it is one of Iran's most popular tourist destination.
8,660 square meters is the area of Vakil Mosque, Shiraz’ second most popular mosque. 48 monolithic pillars carved in spirals make a distinctive decoration of its night prayer hall.
Sources: Wikipedia and Encyclopedia Britannica.
Tea house decorations with Persian Poetry, Vakil Bazaar, Shiraz, Iran
Understand
The city symbol of Shiraz is the rose and the nightingale. You will see rose flowers and nightingales in vibrant colors on the tiles of every landmark in the city. The romantic spirit is present everywhere, even in trivial souvenir items you can buy at the market like scarves decorated with tile patterns or poetry calligraphy. Gardens in Shiraz are famous all across the country for their beauty. Locals go there with families and have tea, children are playing around and flowers are blooming - a lovely sight to witness on a sunny afternoon.
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Every Iranian will tell you that Shiraz is the city of wine. While it’s not legally allowed to drink alcohol in the country, you can find many sorts of grapes at the market. They are sweet and plentiful of flavor. Note that you can find people offering you to taste home made wine. I advice you to politely decline any such invitation, especially if you are traveling solo and you don’t know the person making the offer. Stick to pomegranate or watermelon juice, you won’t regret it!
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Shiraz is one of the major touristic cities of Iran. Even though I visited during low season, the iconic Nasr-ol-Molk and the gardens were full of people. One of the 3 most important mosques in Iran, Shah-e-Cheragh, is located in Shiraz. During religious holidays, thousands of people pay visit to this mosque and the city can get very crowded.
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Many Shirazi people are well read in poetry and know by heart the words of iconic poets such as Hafiz. When it comes to him, people read his poetry books as a form of fortune telling. How do they read their future? I’ll put it here as locals explained it to me: “Close your eyes and think of something you want to find an answer to in your life. Take the poetry book of Hafiz, and with eyes closed, open it on a random page. The poem that happens to be there is the answer to your question.”
Hafiz, the wiseman and most prominent Persian Poet
See & Do
I spent 4 days in total in Shiraz. I had one full day for working in the hotel, so everything mentioned below is doable in 3 days. If you just want to see the highlights of the city, I would say 2 days are enough because you can walk easily between the major sites. I’ve marked the highlights with 3 stars → ***. Entrance fees range between 150,000 IRR to 200,000 IRR (less than 4 EUR) for each place.
Mosques
Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque*** • Vakil Mosque*** • Shah-e-Cheragh
Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque. The iconic, unforgettable Pink Mosque. You can’t visit Shiraz without it. Here are a few tips for visiting. Make sure to be there between 7-8AM to avoid tourist crowds and take pictures freely. The mosque opens at 7AM. You can see the “kaleidoscope of colors” around 8:30-10AM. I’m not going to lie to you that the atmosphere is idyllic when it’s full of people inside. Ultimately, be prepared to wait your turn, or ask people politely to not cross your way if you want to get a picture of the interior. Try to enjoy the mosque even though it will most likely be crowded. Sometimes, you just have to be patient to get a good shot. Entrance fee for the mosque is 150,000 IRR.
Vakil Mosque is the second most popular mosque in Shiraz and a personal favorite of mine. I loved the divine geometry of the pillars in the night prayer hall. When I was in high school, I remember reading a book about the magic of numbers used in religious architecture buildings across the world. Vakil Mosque was mentioned there as a fine example of sacred patterns that can be found in its architecture. It’s true, the simplistic beauty of this place is sublime. Entrance fee for the mosque is 150,000 IRR.
Visiting the Shah-e-Cheragh Mosque can be a highlight if you are interested in learning about Islam and seeing yet another fine example of Iranian architecture. Wearing a chador (full cover) for women is mandatory in this mosque, and you will be assigned a guide for free while you are inside. To visit the mosque, head to the main entrance from the street market at Lotif Ali Khan Zand street and ask the security guard to go inside. He will assign you a guide and let you in. Photos are not allowed with a camera inside, you can only bring in your phone. You can leave you camera at the security guard in front of the entrance. This is the third most important mosque in Iran and I’ll never forget its breathtaking beauty. Entrance is free.
Gardens
Naranjestan Qavam*** • Eram Garden*** • Jahan Nama Garden (One of Shiraz’s pretty gardens, with a cafe where you can have a fresh pomegranate juice. You bet I did.) • Tomb of Hafez
The small Narenjestan Garden (Qavam) is the most beautiful garden in Shiraz in my opinion. The magnificent mosaics, elaborate mansion decorations and the palm trees outside give you a sense of being in a palace, even though the place is relatively small. Entrance fee is 200,000 IRR.
Eram Garden is quite far from the city center and if you are crazy like me, you can give it a try to walk from Karim Khan Citadel. Otherwise, reaching it would be most easy with a taxi (count around 120,000-150,000 IRR for the taxi fee and make sure you negotiate before you get in the car). I liked this garden for its palm trees, the flowers I’d never seen before and the huge fountain in front of the mansion at the entrance. Entrance fee is 200,000 IRR.
If you like poetry, the Tomb of Hafez is an important place to visit. Not only will you see the place where his remains rest, but you can buy many special edition books with his poetry translated from Persian to English. Mind you, these books are not cheap even by European standards - prices range from 20 to 50 EUR. Cash payment is accepted in IRR only or you can pay with Mahcard. The 50 EUR book was with perfumed silk sheets and amazing Persian style illustrations. I didn’t buy this one, but it can be a priceless present for a loved one who appreciates literature and art. Entrance fee is 200,000 IRR.
Other Landmarks
Vakil Bazaar*** • Vakil Bath (If you have seen the Sultan Amir Bathhouse in Kashan, you won’t be very impressed here. Vakil bath is bigger, but not as beautiful as the one in Kashan) • Khan School (a religious school next to Vakil Bazar with beautiful mosaics) • Ali Ibn Hamza Mausoleum • Karim Khan Citadel (a nice landmark to see if you have free time during a long stay in Shiraz) • Persepolis*** (Persepolis is a great place to spend the afternoon around sunset) • Maharloo Lake*** (Also known as Pink Lake, read more below.)
Vakil Bazaar is one of the oldest bazaars in Iran. I went there twice, just to get lost in between the many hypnotizing shops. One of the signature sweets from Iran, Faloodeh, originated in Shiraz and can be found on the market. It’s a traditional sorbet infused with rose water and mixed with thin vermicelli noodles. Don’t forget to visit Sarayeh Moshir, a beautiful mini-market inside the big Vakil Bazaar. Somewhere nearby, I found one of the most beautiful tea houses I’ve been to while in Iran. Sadly, I don’t know its name because I was alone there and everything was written in Farsi.
Persepolis is a UNESCO heritage landmark of the ancient city once flourishing during the Achaemenid Empire. The name Persepolis literally means “the city of Persians“. It’s best to go there by car and on a guided tour as there are many details you won’t know about (unless you are into history and archaeology). I recommend to visit in the afternoon around sunset. Half a day should be enough time to see all highlights. If you stay at Ana Boutique Hotel, the owner Yoones can help you arrange a visit to Persepolis. Entrance fee is 200,000 IRR.
Pink lake? Yes, Shiraz is all about pink. The natural wonder of Maharloo Lake is something you need to see to believe. Its intense pink/red color is due to a natural process of mineralization. This lake is one my favorite landscapes of Iran, together with Hormuz island. The lake is a 30-min drive from Shiraz and best time for visit is again… sunset. If you stay at Ana Boutique Hotel, the owner Yoones can help you visit Maharloo Lake.
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