From Varna, with Love

By popular demand on Instagram… Drum roll… Here’s the ultimate travel guide to Varna, the marine capital of Bulgaria. Varna is my home city and I’m sooo excited to be sharing with you the places I love 🧡 Totally unbiased opinion, but I think Varna and Veliko Tarnovo are Bulgaria’s most beautiful cities and the best for living as well.

Before I begin with recommending places, here are a few quick, yet important facts about Varna.

  • Varna is the third biggest city in Bulgaria behind Sofia and Plovdiv. Because of its economic and geographic significance, we call Varna “the marine capital” of Bulgaria. The Naval Academy “Nikola Vaptsarov” located close to the Sea Garden in the city is the oldest technical educational institution in Bulgaria. Both military and non-military careers can be pursued at the academy. With over 2500 national and international undergraduate students, it contributes significantly to the maritime profession in the country and beyond. I have many friends and family who have graduated from the Naval Academy and I can’t imagine Varna existing without it.

  • Varna’s Sea Garden is another major city symbol which is truly one of a kind. It is the largest landscaped park in the Balkans with a total area estimated at 26,000 m². It has long alleys with statues and benches for chilling out; an open-air theater with various performances during the summer time; the Festa Dolphinarium - the only one in Bulgaria and on the Balkan peninsula; an open-air fitness area and of course - kilometers long of city beaches stretched on the marine frontier of the Sea Garden. Every August, there is a festival of Bulgarian Arts and Crafts held near the entrance of the garden where artisans sell traditional hand-made goods, wine, honey, jewellery and clothes.

  • The oldest gold treasure in the world was discovered at the Varna Necropolis. If the treasure is not exhibited at a guest exhibition in a foreign museum, you can see it at the Varna Archeological Museum.

  • There is an infamous rivalry between Varna and Burgas, the second biggest city on Bulgaria’s coastline. Basically we “fight” about which city is the best and the coolest. Of course, you know whose side I’m on 😜

  • Finally, Varna has a lot of resorts and parks in close proximity to it. I have heard many many times of people spending their 2-week summer holidays at their hotels in Golden Sands, Albena or Sunny Beach without seeing Varna. Some people didn’t even know a major Bulgarian city was in close proximity to those resorts. I hope this article inspires you to go out of your all-inclusive experience and explore my beautiful city.

When to visit?

Most commonly, people visit Varna in the summertime for obvious reasons (June-August). Some airlines don’t even offer flights in the winter season. But I have a saying that summer in Varna is for beach goers and winter is for sea lovers. The people with salt in their heart and waves in their soul. If you plan to visit the city only once, then go in the summer when it’s cheerful and busy. But if you plan to return, I definitely recommend a winter or off-season trip to Varna. September-November and March-May are perfect, because there is practically nobody at the beaches, the water is cold and crystal clear, yet the sun is still shining. Some hotels and seaside restaurants are operational all year round, the open air pools and SPAs I will recommend below are also working even in the rain and snow. Another reason to visit Varna off season is that hotel prices are significantly lower. I mean 3-4 times lower.

Here below are some photos of Varna in the winter time 🧊🦋

Where to stay?

I have never stayed at a hotel in Varna, but friends of mine who did recommended highly the The Palace Balneo & Spa Hotel which is located in the St. Constantine & Helena resort, within a short bus ride from Varna city center or about 10lv-15lv (5€-8€) for a taxi ride. If I have to think about “the hotel” that defines Varna, it is Hotel & Casino “Cherno More”. This hotel is in the most central location in the city and has been there for more than 40 years. The rooftop bar can be visited without staying at the hotel. Legend goes that the views from the top are fantastic. Another place located in the St. Constantine & Helena resort which is perfect for a romantic getaway is Villa Chinka. Especially in winter, this place’s beauty is captivating. Finally, Booking.com and AirBnb are fully operational in Bulgaria and offer an additional wide variety of options.

Coffee, Food & Drinks

My favorite coffee place in Varna is 43.12 Café - the baristas know their craft well and the vibe inside is very relaxed. The only “disadvantage” I see is that it’s a very Western-like café, so if you want to try classic Bulgarian food, it’s not the right place. If you crave a milkshake, the best in Varna are served at HashtagSTUDIO - The Culture Club. Live music and other cultural events take place regularly in this café. Of course, good coffee, tea and cocktails are also served inside. Last coffee recommendation is for Stories. Coffee & More... - very hipster and very cosy.

Most of the times I’m in Varna, I eat at home, but I’ve been a few times to Staria Chinar - Port Varna and have never left disappointed. They serve good Bulgarian food, but the place can get very busy, so make sure to book a table in advance if you want to make sure you have a spot. They also have a second restaurant on Macedonia Street. The restaurant at Villa Chinka is also great, serving Bulgarian and foreign food, as well as sushi.

Bulgarians love a good spicy pepper to add a hot lava twist to their food. It’s somewhat unexpected for foreigners, but many people in the country love spiciness. My favorite chilly pepper and spice store is Chilli Hills Varna 🌶🔥

If you like a good craft beer, I recommend stopping by Averi Beer Shop. Cheers! 🍺

The only city bar I recommend full-heartedly in Varna is Kultura Speakeasy Bar. The bartenders in this bar are master cocktail makers, they know the story behind every drink they serve and the vibe is chic, yet casual and friendly. A bonus fun experience is that the entrance to the bar is kinda hidden, you have to think creatively to find it. It is inspired by the true Speakeasy bars prominent in the United States during the Prohibition Era.

Finally, the beach bar Cubo is the “it” place to be if you’re looking to spend the night on the beach. Even Bulgarian celebs go there. There’s the old Cubo bar and the new Cubo at Fisherman's Beach. My honest opinion is that even though the bar is very pretty, it is usually very crowded and the service could be improved. I like to be there off season, but not in the summer time when there’s too many people.

Off the Grid

Varna has a splendor which I feel deeply in my heart, but find hard to describe with words. I’m for sure influenced by the years of experiences and memories I’ve made in some of those places, but the essence of what I want to say is don’t limit yourself to the popular places. Take a bus. Visit a neighborhood far from the city. Try a banitsa from a bakery. Try boza. Check out the Varna lighthouse at sunset. Dare to visit Galata, and watch the city at night. Come in winter and run barefoot on the cold shores of the Black Sea. Then warm yourself up in a cosy sauna with a sea view. Look it up. Find it out. Open your mind and your heart to a beauty that is not documented, not curated, not cultivated. It’s all I will say, discover the rest on your own. I’m leaving you with a few of my favorite pictures for some inspiration below.

That’s it for this travel guide. If you need any tips or more details, don’t hesitate to reach out on Instagram via private message. As always, wishing you the best time while discovering my beautiful Varna. I love my home city and I really hope when you visit, you will do too 😌💛

Varna travel guide by Alex Kovacheva

Sources consulted :

Nikola Vaptsarov Naval Academy official website.

Copyright © Alex Kovacheva, Nomad Photos. All rights reserved.

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