Memories from Kathmandu

The very first impression I got from Nepal happened while I was 2km up in the air somewhere above the Himalaya about to land in Kathmandu. The city was wrapped in clouds and the pilot had to circle the plane in the air in hope that the clouds will disperse. It wasn’t even sure we were going to land in Kathmandu as we received a message we could head to another country if the clouds refuse to move away. Forty minutes later, while we were racing down the concrete airport runway, I thought to myself: “Nature is king in Nepal”. And the more I walked around Kathmandu, the more I saw this thought materialize in the city around me.

Boudhanath, the Great Stupa of Kathmandu

The whole city is practically nested in the Himalayan Mountain: a guardian that protected Nepal from invasion through the past centuries, but also a mighty force capable of causing destruction. I spoke with a Nepali friend of mine who told me proudly “we don’t celebrate Independence Day in Nepal, because we were never an occupied country”. The reverence of people for the surrounding mountains is contagious and stays with me to this day. Walking the streets in Kathmandu, you can notice that, truly, Nature has the last word in Nepal. Traces of the horrific 2015 earthquake that killed nearly 9000 people were still visible in 2018 when I visited. As such, damaged buildings and streets are also a part of the reality that is Kathmandu today. 

So what was is like to walk around in Kathmandu ? It was bustling with crazy traffic on the streets. It was sensing the harmony in the chaos. It was the street markets and tiny restaurants from where curious faces were inviting me for a conversation or a meal. It was all these little moments you can’t really describe with words, so I’ll let the pictures below speak for themselves.

Nepal was also the first time for me to experience being in a predominantly Hindu country. There are several important Hindu temples in Kathmandu. Among them all, my favorite and in my opinion also the most magical, is the Swayambhunath Stupa. I stayed there for hours just breathing the air infused with incense, watching people coming in and out, whispering their prayers, lighting a candle... time flew by in this sacred place. 

I will be honest here. I didn’t spend much time in Kathmandu as my main purpose of going to Nepal was trekking in the mountains. I didn’t read much about the history and people of the country, but rest assured, the culture of Nepal is as rich as its nature. I should mention here my good friend Anish, who I met in Kathmandu and is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve ever met in my travels. If you want to learn about Nepali culture, history and people, Anish can be contacted via the following email. Finally, Nepal is also home to many Tibetans. It’s an opportunity for you to have a glimpse into the mysterious and fascinating world of Tibet. Take this with respect and humility as the story of Tibetan people is intertwined with sadness and struggle.

I’ll leave it here for Kathmandu, but I do hope life will give me a chance to be back there one day. There are more treks in Nepal that I really dream of doing. I still keep the notes I took in 2018 about planning these treks “sometime” in the future… I do not know which path will take me back to Nepal, but I am looking forward to be back in these outlandish places filled with culture and color. But most of all, I long to be a part of the untamed, powerful and awe inspiring wilderness.

Copyright © Alex Kovacheva, Nomad Photos. All rights reserved.

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Nepal’s Sacred Art

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