Kashan, the City of Roses
Kashan is a city oasis close to the Maranjab Desert and a paradise for anyone interested in Persian architecture. The historical carpet merchants homes, the beautiful Aghra Borzg Mosque and the Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse are just among the many wonders to experience in the city. In spring time, around Nowruz, you can witness the rose festival which is pretty similar to the Bulgarian rose festival. And yes, one more connection between Bulgaria and Iran. In fact, Kazanlak in Bulgaria is a sister city of Kashan ❤️
My exploration of the city was limited because I happened to be there around the Muharram Observances. Many places of interest, cafés and restaurants were closed while the streets were bustling with life. This in itself was a memorable experience, and I know that one day I’ll be back to see the remaining places.
Tabatabaei Natanzi Historical House
Impressions
Kashan is a desert city with a very distinctive look and feel. My impression is that people in desert cities tend to dress a bit more conservatively. If you want to blend in, dark pastel colors will be best. Of course, nobody will mind any color you put on, but a few people told me they appreciated I was dressed in darker colors as a tourist.
〜
Kashan is the first city in Iran where I met people from neighboring Afghanistan. I later talked with several Iranians and they told me that, in fact, many Afghans live in Iran. I never had a chance to talk with anyone from Afghanistan before visiting Iran and this was an exciting new encounter. I didn’t find such information in other travel blogs, so I’m putting this short note for anyone interested.
See & Do
The most important places of interest in Kashan are listed below. Prices for each of these sites ranges from 150,000 IRR to 250,000 IRR (less than 2 EUR with the exchange rate at the time of writing).
Agha Bozorg Mosque • Abbasian Historical House • Borujerdiha Historical House • Tabatabaei Natanzi Historical House • Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse • The Historical City Center • Kashan Bazaar • Jameh Mosque of Kashan • Darb Zanjir Shrine • Puppet House Museum • Jalali Castle • Fin Garden
If you stay in the historical city center, all main tourist attractions are within walking distance. English labels will help you orient yourself in the winding streets of the city. I think 2 days are enough for getting a feel of Kashan. If you want to visit the desert, add a day or two.
Don’t go to Kashan without seeing the Aghra Borzg Mosque. I almost missed it, but luckily we were able to make it there with two ladies I met in my guesthouse. We only saw the mosque at night, upon full moon. We stood for a while speechless just to take the view in: the fountains, surrounded by fig and pomegranate trees, the tiles bathing in different colors and the people walking by slowly. It was a beautiful experience to see the domes lit up in colors, especially as the sky was clear and the moon visible from above.
Another place of worship with breathtaking beauty is the Darb Zanjir Shrine. This shrine is very close to the Kashan Bazaar and I highly recommend that you make a visit there to marvel at the mirror works inside. Soft green Persian carpets cover the entire floor of the shrine. The marble on the walls is of highest quality and the ceiling is bright, green, silver, infinite, with thousands pieces of mirrors reflecting everything. I appreciate seeing this lesser known shrine as much as seeing the popular Aghra Borzg Mosque.
The historical merchants houses are works of art, by all standards. You will admire their opulent decorations and the artists’ craftsmanship. In these houses, guest rooms are usually the most beautifully ornate. That’s because in Islam, a guest is seen as a gift from God. Therefore, guests are treated with utmost care which starts by hosting them in a fairy-tale like room. On the architecture aspect, the merchant houses are built in a way to provide cool fresh air during the summer and warm sunlight in the winter. The people in Kashan and Yazd have developed this air conditioning system by using basic fluids dynamics (I’m a total dork, I know) and without using electricity.
One of the most unique experiences you can have in Kashan is staying at the Puppet House Museum. This is literally a guesthouse combined with a museum for traditional Iranian handicrafts. Even if you don’t stay in this place as a guest, you can visit the museum and participate in workshops about making puppets in Iranian style. The owner, Amir, is a wonderful person who will share with you interesting facts about Kashan, and the places around.
Last but not least, you must see the Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse. It’s a pity that this bathhouse is no longer in use because it’s the most epic place you could possibly take a bath in. From the entrance to the rooftop, every view is a feast for the eyes. At this point in my trip, I was convinced that doing architecture Iranian style means splendor, opulence, creativity and originality. Someone should make an exact copy of this bathhouse somewhere for real use. Business ideas, anyone?
Having rose water drink is a must when in Kashan! You will find them in every café around the city. The distinctive aromatic taste of the Rosa Damascena (Damascus Rose) is hard to describe if you have never tried it. It’s delicate and soft, like the petals of the flower itself.
If you travel during a religious holiday many restaurants will be closed, but the one at Manouchehri Traditional Hotel will likely be open. Call them in advance just to check. It’s more expensive than the norm in Iran, but if the other option is hunger, I guess you go for it 😅 Another open place is Mr.Coffee. Both places serve delicious food and are vegetarian/vegan friendly.
Finally, if you want to visit Kashan with a guide, or you look for a recommendation for a place to stay, check the ultimate Iran travel guide for reliable contacts and hotel recommendations in Iran.
Copyright © Alex Kovacheva, Nomad Photos. All rights reserved.